Although this is our first time visiting this charming Cyclades island it’s apparent it has stolen the hearts of many other travellers who return repeatedly. And it is easy to see why. It has the quintessential white washed villages, blue gates and shutters, and picture perfect small meandering streets outlined in white but it’s not on the party hardy list of islands à la Santorini, Mykonos, or Ios. Suits us just fine. It’s still off season and many restaurants and ‘rooms to let’ have not opened yet there’s always a taverna or two open whenever we felt it was time to eat or stop for a drink. And the food has been fantastic with regional differences showing up. Greek salads here come with more capers than olives and chickpea dishes are a specialty of Sifnos. In the Peloponnese two of my favourite dishes, dolmades and artichokes, were almost always on the menu but not so here.
Kamares is the port town and where we have stayed put in a sweet, small one bedroom apartment in a family run pension. We have a little kitchenette so we can do our own breakfasts or lunch – going out to eat every meal for weeks and weeks can get old quickly. Although it is a port the beach gets the coveted blue flag status which means it’s very clean. And there really aren’t that many ferries coming and going. Speaking of ferries it was difficult to find current schedules on line when planning this adventure and advice was always if you aren’t pressed for time wait till you are there and go to an agent. We’ve adjusted some of our accommodation reservations as we had to arrive here a day early and now have to depart two days earlier than planned. Another benefit of having the luxury of time and a fairly loose schedule. I know some of you have taken Greek ferries and here is the Port of Piraeus and our first of what will be many ferry rides. And you still walk on with the cars - no overhead walkways here.
Pics include Grand View Rooms, Kamares, Aghia Ekaternia church near our ‘home’.
Sifnos is a real draw for hikers and walkers. Hikes, from easy to very difficult, are scattered across the island with fairly good signage (we’ve missed a few directional markings but were not on long walks so it didn’t matter) and they take you on paths the locals have in their DNA. Plus there’s always evidence of our friends the goats so when in doubt follow the droppings.
Pics include path up to Aghios Andreas and a Mycenaean Acropolis (1 km straight up which had me huffing and puffing – much easier coming down), spring wildflowers, views from path connecting the villages of Artemonas and Apollonia, the guide marks noting paths and directions.
We’ve been getting around by local bus which has a limited schedule but has worked nicely for us. Sure, you may have to kill a couple of hours before it returns to home base but as I said earlier there will be a taverna open. And someone else is driving so have a glass of vino or beer.
Pics include villages around the island – Vathi, Kastro, Platy Yialos.
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